Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Is Home Sewing Killing Fashion?

I was idly flipping through some "pieces of flair" on Facebook (embarrassing to admit, but true) and one of the "button" designs was this:  Home Sewing is Killing Fashion - with a drawing of a sewing machine with teeth rather than a presser foot.

Is Home Sewing Killing Fashion?  Hmm.  I guess you'd have to start with the concept of "Fashion".  If "Fashion" is strictly the mass-produced sweatshop made crap that is generally found in stores, then yes I suppose that we, the "home sewing" crowd might be posing a bit of a threat.

In the interest of trying to be fair to different points of view, I can imagine a couple of ways in which I might be sympathetic to the button's designer.

First, that many consider the wave of "hack, slash and stitch" projects that seem to have proliferated over the past few years (1000 to remake a t-shirt/jeans/skirt/quilt/curtain, etc.) have encouraged a lot of very poor quality workmanship in the name of "fashion" that has only a very faint resemblance to the incredible quality of most garments that come from a couture house - even the ones that look deconstructed.  Fair enough.

Perhaps some design students also feel that it is invalid for anyone with a sewing machine making their own clothing and accessories who has not had formal training to call themselves a fashion designer.  Again, it's understandable that they might feel that way.

But I think overall such a statement is terribly shortsighted.  Where did Coco Chanel learn to make hats and clothing?  She was certainly highly skilled but I don't believe she ever studied with another couturier.  There have certainly been Project Runway finalists (Laura...the tall pregnant redhead comes to mind) who had other occupations besides design and would qualify for the term "home sew-er" prior to getting launched by Project Runway.  And many successful designers (too many for me to list here) certainly list learning to sew at home as the beginning of their interest in fashion design. 

I wish I could track down the originator of that design to get their take on the question.  Comments, anyone?

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Sharing the (Silk) Love

Spent a great day today teaching "Simply Sewing with Silk" at Quiltworks Northwest in Bellevue.  As always, the attitude, interest and enthusiasm of the class participants was terrific.  It was a mix of mostly sewing enthusiasts I hadn't met yet (I don't often teach on the "East Side" or "North End") and a few familiar friendly faces.  I continue to be so touched at the comraderie that sewing engenders among its enthusiasts.  There is truly something special about textiles that it creates such a warm - no pun intended - welcome.

Now the true prep work for the Sewing and Stitchery Expo next month begins.  I try not to "dwell" on it, as I might start to panic!  I really do want to get at least one new "show" garment done for my seminar on Friday.  I already have a class sample for the hands-on I'm teaching on Sunday, so really I should quit stressing over it. 

Always on the back burner are more project/article ideas.  So many possibilities!  I continue to be inspired by the book "The Art of Manipulating Fabric".  Because it strictly focuses on the actual manipulation techniques - not projects - it's a great "dream inspiration" as my fevered imagination reworks and sews the various examples into all sorts of interesting things.  Where does inspiration come from?  I always think it's kind of odd when people ask that question of artists.  Where doesn't it come from?  Sometimes the amount of potential creative ideas input is just overwhelming.  I received a beautiful leather journal from my guy for Christmas to help me have a nice place to put my idea sketches (wish they were less rudimentary!) and descriptions for future use.  I'm improving on the habit of writing down ideas rather than just thinking (mistakenly) that I will remember them later.  So I'm grateful for the new journal.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Wool Lace


Here is an interesting and very treasured textile that I recently acquired: a beautiful piece of grey wool lace.  Not knitted lace from fine wool yarns - sewn/woven lace constructed onto a net background.

My only previous exposure to wool lace in person was on the dress that Isobel Toledo designed and made for Michelle Obama to wear to the Inauguration.  It was a beautiful and very classy dress and coat ensemble made from lemongrass yellow wool lace lined with silk.  The ensemble was on display this summer at The Museum at FIT's exhibit,  Isobel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out

I found this particular yardage at a small sewing/knitting shop in Spokane, WA called "Sew E-Z Too".  It and its sister store, "Sew E-Z", in Colville (a small town northwest of Spokane) are must-visit destinations for anyone in E. Washington, by the way.  Don't let the odd name fool you - they are chock full of gorgeous fabrics, beautiful yarns and amazing buttons, trims and other notions.

Upon spotting this piece in the wool section, I immediately stopped dead in my tracks and said (whether out loud or to myself) "Oh my goodness, that's wool lace!"  Of course I also immediately called for my dear friend Pamela to come and help appreciate it, as we were there together while taking a lunch break/playing hooky from the Washington Make It With Wool competition.  She agreed that it was truly something special.  I couldn't quite bring myself to buy it at that time.  But I couldn't stop thinking about it.  Thankfully, Christmas was just around the corner, and my husband who, while no doubt bewildered at the sheer quantity (not to mention variety) of fabrics in my possession, was kind enough to add this gem to the collection.



The construction is very interesting.  Fine and heavy woolen threads/yarns are stitched onto a net backing (see photo directly above).  The actual detail of the lace design is easier to discern from the back due to the contrasting white of the backing.  The photo of the fabric face above appears somewhat fuzzy, but it's not truly due to the quality of the photo.  The fabric itself is made with relatively lightly spun yarns, so it has a very soft, nearly "out of focus" look to the fabric from the face.  The fabric is 38 inches wide, which is a fair width for lace fabric.

So of course now the question is: what shall I do with it?  I have several ideas.  Of course it would make a gorgeous overlay on an evening dress.  I don't think I would cover the entire dress.  More likely just the bodice.  Of course it would make a gorgeous jacket as well.  Because of the net backing, you would want to use a lining with it, as Isobel Toledo did.  A lighter or darker shade of grey would be my logical choice.  Just different enough to provide some additional visual interest and dimension.  Meanwhile, I think I will just hold it in my hands and dream!